Archive for August, 2009

Wednesday, 19th August, Moab: Bump into Mark Beaumont and the Ural Reunion!

Wednesday, August 19th, 2009

We left Salt Lake to go and meet Austin and Lois, also in a Ural, in Moab, South Utah.

They have been journeying through the Southern States – so this is as far west as they are coming and as far east as we will go (for the moment anyway – the Mexico boarder question remains an issue) so we’re going to meet, video each other on the bikes, and have all the campground mayhem you’d expect from the kind of people prepared to travel huge distances in an absurd but wonderful vehicle, which people endlessly point at, which only travels at 65mph, which may not be conducive to conjugal harmony…

It starts inauspiciously. We leave Salt Lake City FIVE HOURS LATE. Even for us, that’s saying something. We passed a sweaty cyclist south of Moab, who they guessed (given that there are simply no other cyclists in the desert) may have been BBC presenter and adventurer Mark Beaumont (and star of those Orange ads..), en route to South America. An inspirational guy, with an entirely different experience of the road from Alaska. Check out his site: www.markbeaumontonline.com, and BBC blog: www.bbc.co.uk/blogs/cyclingtheamericas His book “The Man who Cycled The World” is in the shops now.

We knew about his trip, and have been hoping to cross paths with him at some stage. Mike and he share a mutual friend, so we got hold of his address, and – given that he was also in Salt Lake – tried to set up a meeting. We got an email reply to say that we’d missed him, but that he’d give a call when we could. Fair enough. So we set off, and about an hour down the road, on a winding road through the southern Utah canyons, there was a lone bike rider. Mike pointed, we pulled up beside him, and I hollered in my usual shy way, “MARK! MARK BEAUMONT! WE EMAILED YOU!” which I’m sure didn’t scare the crap out of him at all. A pair of Evil Knievel lunatics in a wartime-design motorbike and sidecar is totally normal. Only one machine gun rig on the sidecar away from tea and biscuits.

He indicated that we should drive ahead and pull over, and he joined us a couple of minutes later. What a dude! He goes like sh*t off a shovel, and didn’t even puff when he pulled over. I was being typically Alanna and gave him a hard time about the fact that he was doing it all on the BBC One dime and we hadn’t even managed to convince BBC back-of-beyond to commission us… (he was utterly charming in the face of my lady-like onslaught. Mike suggested that I might have been a bit full-on. I, natch, thought I was being funny).

We will try and cross paths with him further along the road for a proper chat, rather that an hour at the side of the freeway. But the dude is a legend. He did, when we asked him for advice on our trip, say that we were very very lucky to have company. He said he got very lonely on the road but that he was loving the trip. We hope to catch him in Mexico. And to leach his success, obv.

We met up with Austin and Lois late. But it was, of course, totally brilliant. Austin is still mad as a brush, Lois is the epitome of glamour (on a roadtrip?! It defies belief) and we ate, drank and laughed as we exchanged tales of burning up the States on our Urals.

Next up, we’re off to Vegas via Grand Canyon. More, as ever, to follow.

Tuesday, 18th August, Salt Lake City: meeting with 2 big Fundamentalist families

Wednesday, August 19th, 2009

Another unbelievable day:  Having met the 30 year old husband of a plural family the evening before, Anne took us to meet a 50 year old patriarch. He had many more wives than the first man’s two, but we didn’t ask. Maybe 4, who knows. When asked how many children he had, he laughingly said that he didn’t know, but I think it was his media-savvy kicking in. His eldest child is 31, his youngest 8 months. Swarms of smiling children scampered around his big house and garden, delighting in watching dad and moms being asked about their family set up. 5 girls between the ages of 14 and 12 laughed together as a gang – exactly like I was at school, just that I wasn’t related to my closest friends. It was the morning after a family wedding so everyone was around, we met tens of people, all from this one family. The children were totally enchanting. All unique, all curious, asked questions, wanted to show me round, eager to show off.
The answers to our questions were less satisfying with this family, I think because the entire family came out to the garden to listen in. I had a stronger sense of the male patriarch in this family – he answered most of the questions, and in a way which was quite hard to penetrate. He was, however, utterly charming. His wives were quieter, and more traditional. One younger one wearing the oft-seen sculted top knot, and all covered reservedly. When I asked who was the mother of a specific child, he said that all the children treat all of the women as their mothers and that question is never asked around the home. One of the wives was the home mom specifically, one works as a teacher, everyone shared the work. Older kids look after younger kids, everyone has their tasks on the farm that the family have in their big garden in suburban Salt Lake.
The relationships between the man and his wives in this family felt much more traditional. When I asked how he courted one of his wives, he said that courtship doesn’t exist in Fundamentalist Mormon culture. Individuals pray to God for the answer and when it comes, they talk to their bishop, who will then sanction a union. The couple then gets to know each other, court, and fall in love (though they do not refer to an emotional love, this is an eternal love, sanctioned and ordained by God, love is based on commitment, emotion plays no role)

Believe it or not, this is not the entire immediate family.

Believe it or not, this is not the entire immediate family.

They are very industrious, growing and canning a lot of their food. When talking about finances, they say that they do indeed have to be very frugal, shopping in bulk, coordinating it all with military precision, taking advantage of good deals. The kids don’t seem deprived though in any way. I asked them about their favourite flavour of pizza, and they do indeed have take out nights and sleepovers like any other children. They are homeschooled, that’s the difference. The younger husband we interviewed said that he had loved every minute of his childhood – who wouldn’t love having 5 brothers the same age who were all best friends and could spend every minute together?

Finally, Anne took us to the elderly patriarch of a huge family. He was also the leader of one of the Fundamentalist groups, having been disatisfied with the way that one of the other, larger groups was organising itself. We pulled up outside a huge red brick house, built in a U shape, with a basketball court to one side, baseball diamond behind it, large playground, rose garden leading to the front door. A jovial old man opened the door, huge grin, playful tone of voice. This was him. He explained that the whole house was built by members of his church and family. It had taken 2 years, but they had designed it themselves and it suited them perfectly. It really was a spectacular place.

He and one of his wives showed us round the place. She was dressed in a more traditional way, with long braid and shirt. But she had real presence – answering most of our questions with authority and fervour. They took us to the church that they gather at. A big room with a stage and seats for 200 or so. The school, also on the grounds and attended by members of the family, was putting on a play so various props littered it. The Fundamentalists believe that, among other things, Jesus had multiple wives and was a father. She refered to a passage in the New Testament when Mary and Martha were with Jesus, and one complains that she is having to wash the dishes whilst Mary can talk to Jesus. Not the behaviour of someone receiving a guest, more of someone talking to her husband.

They showed us the various different quarters which each of the wives had: all having their own private space for them and their children (though most of the wives had no children left in the home). It was huge and totally fascinating. He was utterly charming, again, great company, with a twinkle in his eye and a mischievous grin. Though I was really tired by that point, I was still totally charmed. We interviewed him and two of the wives and it was interesting to get the older perspective. A friend of his had died suddenly, and the church had suggested that he marry the man’s wives, so they had lived with him for 20 years. The eldest of these ladies had joined us for an interview. She was a fabulous granny figure, 84 years old, and treated her now-husband as a mate. They laughed together cheekily, and there was the suggestion that there were no sexual relations there.

In fact, at no point during meeting any of the three families did I feel like this was something to do with sexual gratification. As the woman at the conference were at pains to point out, if you want to get a lot of sex, why on earth would you get more wives? Surely you’d just play away from home – so that it was sex with no strings. Here the men are responsible for entire new families. It’s exhasting, expensive and not the easiest way to get sex by any means.

All in all, the whole experience was fascinating and eye-opening. I really did come away with the feeling that we should live and let love. These are families built entirely on love.

After 2 full and hectic days immersed in understanding the Fundamentalist Mormon culture, we return to our wonderful friends Johnny and Angel for the first alcohol in days, full of stories and facts and sit down to a BBQ and conversation late into the night.

Monday, 17th August, Grantsville: the story of love and survival

Wednesday, August 19th, 2009

- Then we drive to meet Leonard and Janet, members of the LDS church (regular Mormons). Leonard was very seriously burnt in an industrial accident in ’92 and admits that he is very very lucky to be alive. He spent 2 months in a coma after the accident, and was blind for nearly a year until he has cornea transplants. He wore a burn suit for his entire body for 18 months, before returning to (the same place to) work. Janet stayed with him throughout (statistically with very serious burns cases, this is very unusual) and they have now been married for 36 years, with 4 kids and many grandchildren. Janet and Leonard have been actively involved with a burns camp for burns victims and Leonard spends much of his spare time visiting children in the Salt Lake burns unit. They are a truly inspiring couple, and it was a pleasure to meet them. And their fab grandson Isaac, the pumpkin man.

Monday, 17th August, Salt Lake City: understanding polygamy

Wednesday, August 19th, 2009

After the patient, wonderful and articulate Anne had taken us through a crash course on the roots of Fundamentalist Morman faith, she organised it so that we could attend an all day conference for people who come in contact withplural families through their work (social work, hospital workers, etc) called “Working with Polygamous Family Systems: A Culturally-Guided, Balanced Approach to Service Provision”.

Anne is a co-founder of an organisation called Principle Voices, which has been working hard over the last few years to build bridges between the traditionally extremely wary Fundamentalist communities and the outside world. She herself was a plural wife, and along with three other wpoen, they realised that the mistrust of the outside world which the communities have was meaning that they simply weren’t asking for help where they most needed it (eg doctors, counselling) for fear of being prosecuted.

Because dealings with the Fundamentalist communities are fairly new territory for state workers (only recently, under the legislation of Utah Attorney General Mark Shurtleff, has the state law suggested that perpetrators of bigamy would not be prosecuted for this felony), the conference waas also a way of breaking down the stereotypes and biases, and helping workers to tailor their skills to this particular culture.

During the course of the day we heard from representatives from the Attorney General’s office (including the AG himself, who we managed to talk to), from social workers, and from a panel of plural wives. The AG’s office gave a layman’s introduction to the principles of hte faith, and the current legal position of the state with regards to bigamy (which is to forgive the adult consensual union, and crack down hard on any incidences of underage marriage, child abuse and welfare fraud)

The social workers concentrated on underdoing the stereotypes, and explaining with examples who standard practice in the field simply could not be applied to this culture. So rather than defaulting to suggestion applicable to mainstream society (see a counsellor, register in college, etc) – for example, Fundamentalist commuunities prefer homebirth, as they feel that they will be discrimated against or not understood in a mainstream hospital; children are homeschooled because often the taunts that children have to suffer in mainstream schools is too intimidating.

The most powerful and fascinating part of the day was hearing from the wives themselves. They alone were enough to debunk every stereotype you may ever have held about polygamy. We heard from 4 separate women about their experiences and ways of life as plural wives. Standing up there and addressing an auditorium of people with fixed preconceptions – not least because it was risking their own freedom and that of their families- must have been fairly terrifying, and yet all 4 of them were fiercely articulate, passionate and held the audience in the palm of their hands.

2 of the ladies were a little older and told stories of the raid of 1953 when the state swept down, arresting fathers, taking children from mothers. Twice I, and the rest of the auditorium, cried at how unjust the behaviour was. One lady told the story of her mother in the raid. Her mother was very very pregnant at the time, and was separated from the rest of her family and children and depostied on her own, afraid and alone, at the door of a hospital. She had a hard birth and at the end, the doctors used a general anaesthetic. When she woke up a few hours later, she asked to see her baby. The nurses ignored her. This went on and on, she was repeated dismissed everytime she ashed about her child – what gender it was, could she see it, had it died? This went on for two days as she became increasingly frantic. Finally, after that time, her baby was returned to her. It turned out that hers was the first child to be born after the raid, and the state had tried to adopt the child. Only when they realised that legal adoption requires the consent of both parents was the baby returned. During the telling of the story, the lady wept sporadically. She was extremely well composed depsite those occasional breaks. She used the story to highlight the descrimination from the very people who should be trying to protect. She talkeed about how the raids drove the communities to be even more isolated and mistrustful of the outside world. Chldren were told to call their fathers “Uncle” in public, never ever talk about their homelives outside the family home, and not to look for help from the outside world.

At one point, a beautiful and intelligent-looking woman took the stage. She was dressed in a tailored black suit, with a green shirt and gold earrings. She told us that she was the first wife of a man with three wives. How the wives loved each other, and adored and cared for all the children in their home. She worked, another of her sister-wives did, and that the house functioned very smmothly. It was so impressive. This woman defied every expectation I had of a plural wife: I thought of braids, austere formal dress, meak character, oppressed spirit, undereducated. But no, this woman was feisty, bright, and funny. The final wife, who closed the talks, was equally well-educated and well-dressed. Exactly the kind of lady – feisty, fun, passionate – that I like to be friends with. They talked about how their households worked, their priorities, and the injustice of the Fundamentalist Mormon stereotyp and the subsequent prejudice and injustice.

Polygamy is all about the family. Everyone who we heard from, talked to on the day, met subequently, talked about how the family comes before anything and everything else. When we asked “Love is…?” as part of the interviews, pretty much every single answer was an articulate variation on the theme of loving others more than oneself. When spending time with the familes, there is an overwhelming sense of community – everyone works together, but everyone also has fun together. The children are really happy, and play delightedly with their myriad of brothers and sisters.

Anne introduced us to three polygamist families. The first, which we met on Monday evening, was a 31 year old man, his 29 year old first wife and his 22 year old second wife. One thing which Anne had informed us about is that asking how many wives or children a man has is a terrible terrible faux pas. She has never talked about how many wives her husband had, and she didn’t know how many any of the many we interviewed had. The fact that these families were prepared to talk to us – and let us film them – when their entire livelihoods are at risk for doing so (people in Utah will take their custom away from business they know to have polygamist owners) – was so extraordinary, and for that reason, I’ll refrain from using names here.

That first meeting – when the man and his two wives and his youngest baby came round to be interviewed – was captivating. They were the most enchanting family I had ever seen. The fact that they are the same age as me and Mike, and so totally recognisable and like us – made it very moving. He had met his first wife at school. They were both young, but they got on really well and knew from the get-go that they wanted to get married. Their parents resisted until she was 18, then the leader of their church consented to the union. They visibly adored each other, and had a very sweet dynamic. That said, she was feisty and fun – pretty, wearing tight jeans and a ruffled t-shirt. When, after 5 years of marriage, they met a friend of his younger sister, the first wife and she had got on really well, and the first wife suggested to her husband that they consider making this younger girl part of their family. He thought it was a good idea – she was lovely and would fit well with their already large family – so his first wife set the wheels in motion, eventually proposing to the second girl by suggesting that they go for a walk together. They are such good friends that the two of them even go away together for Girls’ Weekends, leaving him to look after their large brood. He found out about the proposal when he came down for dinner and the second wife said “we’re engaged!”. It’s very much about marrying into a family rather than marrying a man.

The second wife is one of the most beautiful girls I have ever seen, and the aura of love around all three of them was quite unbelievable. When I asked the first wife why she wanted another woman to share in her life (she wasn’t raised in a plural wife family, though her husband was), she said that she had so much happiness and such a wonderful life and husband, that she wanted to let someone else have that same fortune. The second wife agreed. They were just so happy. They have a large family, the sister-wives get on like best friends, all chores are shared, the children are raised regarding both the mothers as their own. As someone who always loved being around big families, I was transfixed. There was no sense of a sleazy man at the centre of it all having his cake and eating it: he was a sensitive soul, and you had the feeling that he was thrilled with these beautiful and lively women in his life.

Fundamentalist Mormons

Wednesday, August 19th, 2009
  • The LDS (Latter Day Saints) Church’s founder, Joseph Smith, announced the practice of plural marriage to church members in the 1830s. From the very beginning, it was extremely controversial – and illegal in every state in which Smith and the Mormons had lived. People saw it as barbaric because it undermined the concept of marriage, and responded with great hostility to the Mormon community.
  • Utah, the Mormon’s homeland, was still only a territory – and as long as the practice of plural marriage continued, it would never receive its statehood. In 1882, Congress passed an act making “bigamous cohabitation” a misdemeanor (though only males were prosecuted). Under this new law, scores of Mormons who refused to abandon their wives and children were arrested in the Utah territory, while others went into hiding. In 1887, another act enabled the Us government to seize LDS church property.
  • Finally, the leaders of the church relented: their guiding doctrine was amended (with the practice of polygamy no longer advocated amongst other changes).
  • Here is where the schism in the church, between LDS and the Fundamentalists, was created: LDS members (the large majority) accepted the revised doctrine, the Fundamentalists refused to accept these changes to the original teachings of their founder, Joseph Smith. They adapted to a secret, underground lifestyle to avoid prosecution – and what they perceived as persecution from the “world”.
  • This mistrust and unwillingness to communicate with the outside world continues to this day, not least because of a number of raids in which children of plural families were taken from their mothers, who in turn were taken from their husbands – with the husbands imprisoned. A deeply traumatic experience, the memory of which still coarses through the collective consciousness of Fundementalist communities to this day.
  • Mike and I were lucky enough to attend an all day conference given by a government body, designed to promote better understanding of the Fundamentalist culture to help social workers involved withthose communities.  

    A few years ago, the Attorney General of Utah, a great guy called Mark Shurtleff who we managed to interview on the matter, realised that prosecuting the felony of bigamy in the state of Utah required resources way beyond his budget. What he realised was that if he did not chase after consenting adult polygamists, he could instead free up the state’s resources to find and punish – hard – incidences in polygamist communities of child abuse, domestic violence and welfare fraud. An effort which has been hugely successful, and because of his efforts, representatives from all Fundamentalist groups (including the hugely reclusive and highly publicised FLDS) have agreed to put an end to the practice of underage marriages (those under 18).

    • What I had no idea about was that there are many different types of Fundamentalist Mormons, and the stereotypes which abound – of oppressed women, archaic dresses, braids, child brides – are, for the most part, not true at all.
    • There are around 37,000 Fundamentalist Mormons in total. (There are over 13 million Mormons worldwide – not the same thing AT ALL) And though there are that many who believe  in the practice of polygamy, there are far far fewer who practice it.
    • There are four main groups of Fundamentalists -
    • The FLDS, 8-10,000 members. This is the Fundamentalist group which we hear about the most – their prophet is Warren Jeffs, recently incarcerated for rape of a minor and forcing an incestuous marriage. It was on their community that the raids in Texas happened in April 2008 (sending shock waves of terror through the other Fundamentalist communities, and undoing much of the positive work which many had been doing to build bridges into the culture) There is frustration amongst other groups that the stereotypes from this, the most extreme of the subgroups, are applied to all Fundamentalists.
    • The Apostolic United Brethren (the AUB or “Allred Group”)., 7,500 members. They don’t see themselves in opposition to, or in competition with, the Church of Jesus Christ of the Latter Day Saints (mainstream Mormons) and the member are generally integrated in most ways into mainstream society.
    • Centennial Park, 2.000. A large group of Fundamentalist Mormons left Colorado City in 1985 due to a disagreement over leadership succession. A year later, they established Centennial Park where around 1,500 people now live. The community is led by a council, and once again, bears almost no resemblance to the FLDS stereotype.
    • The Kingstons, 2,000 (also known as the Davis County Cooperative). Formed during the Great Depression, it was set up deliberately as a non-religious organisation with the belief that people could work together regardless of their beliefs. A few of the founders included men who had been excommunicated from the LDS church for believing polygamy, though not necessarily practicing it, was a true principle.
    • The biggest ‘group’ is the Independents, making up 15,000 of the 37,000 Fundamentalists. They do not subscribe to any of the individual groups’ practices or particular beliefs, choosing instead to practice in their own way – gathering in small study groups, and not being unified in any broad sense. They are usually well integrated into society.

    I will write with more thoughts on polygamy from what I have seen and learnt – but they are the bare facts. (Many thanks to Anne Wilde and the Utah Attorney General’s office’s Primer booklet, handed out at the conference we attended)

    Sunday, 16th August, Salt Lake: meeting a Fundamentalist Mormon

    Wednesday, August 19th, 2009
    • Spend morning yakking with our hosts, Angel and Johnny. She was devout LDS (Mormon) so could give us full background on the faith and practices.
    • Set off to house of Anne Wilde, founder of Principle Voices, a group which has opened up communication between Fundamentalist Mormons and the outside world. She is fantastic: generous, warm and a kind hostess, and the second of a few wives of a reknowned and prolific author of Fundamentalist works, Ogden Kraut.
    • She talked to us for 3 hours about how the Fundamentalists work, which I’m going to try and distil for you now in a separate post.

    Saturday, 15th August, Salt Lake City: not what we expected…

    Wednesday, August 19th, 2009
    • We’ve made it to Salt Lake City!
    • Not sure what I was expecting, but the cars on the freeway are the nicest cars we’ve seen so far on the trip – Porsches and Lexus and BMWs… blinging Mormons!
    • Staying in south Salt Lake with Tee (from Seattle)’s sister, Angel and her hubby, Johnny. Love ‘em.

    Friday, 14th August, Wendover: Bonneville salt flats and cheesy casinos

    Wednesday, August 19th, 2009
    • Driving through Nevada as fast as we can (which isn’t lightning pace…) to cover as much distance as possible.
    • Boring boring boring. And hot. Desert either side of road. Straight roads stretching into the distance. I sleep and sleep and sleep. Then we swap for a bit and Mike sleeps too.
    • Arrive at Bonneville Salt Flats.
    • Totally bizarre – other worldly and extraordinary. Breathtaking colours – absolute white of the salt and blue of the sky. \
    • “Treat” ourselves to a night at a casino in Wendover. Hilarious. Like a poor (fat) man’s Vegas. Loved it.

    Thursday, 13th August, Alvord Desert: perfect white wilderness

    Wednesday, August 19th, 2009
    • I’d like to put in a shout out for Southern Oregon. Who even knew it was there? Not very many people, judging by the number of people around. The Steen Mountains, and the Alvord Desert in particular, are amongst the most spectacular places I have ever seen.
    • We drive to Fields, the nearest conurbation to the Alvord Desert and settle down for lunch at Fields Station. A gas station/shop/diner, and the only thing happening in the place.
    • From Fields, it’s a half hour drive to the Alvord, a dried up lake bed – which has created a  flat. Not like the Salt Flats, which are blinding white, this is a dusty light yellow. As you pull round the corner in the road, and it appears, it is quite spectacular.
    • We saw a cluster of people landsailing (like sailing, but with wheels) in the distance on the flat. Ever the pain in the neck, I say to Mike that I’d like to drive to them and film them. So over we go.
    • Despite both looking like they are in their 30s, the couple there have been married for 26 years. And so we get out the camera, and off we go with a bonus interview…
    • John and Diane, from Portland, up for anything, windsurfers, tae kwon do (sp?!) experts, civil war re-enactors and generally fabulous.
    • They let Mike and I to have a go on the landsail. OH MY GOD, I WANT ONE. Jaaaaarmazing. Just like a topper, but much easier, much drier, and MUCH MUCH more fun.
    • I suggest John has a go on the bike by way of repayment and of course, as he brings it back in from the dusty desert, something goes CLUNK. And the gears no longer engage with the engine. Not his fault – he did exactly what Mike would have – but the bike’s not going forward.
    • BIKE STATIONARY. Shit.
    • We’re pretty much as far from a Ural dealership as is possible. Or anywhere for that matter.
    • Shit. Another screw up in the space of 2 days.
    • John suggests that we use his truck to tow the bike back to Fields.
    • We rig it up, Mike on the bike following behind the truck, when he waves in distress.
    • THE BACK WHEEL IS FALLING OFF.
    • Shit.
    • So Mike and John set to work, in the middle of the deserted, dusty road in the blazing sun, taking off the back wheel to work out what the hell is wrong.
    • 2 hours later (Diane and I are on the beers by this point), Mike not only realises what caused the problem in the first place (a shattered spline in the back wheel), but has fixed it. Unbelievable. Our boy’s a mechanic!
    • Jubilation. We decide to stay and camp with John and Diane on the Alvord flat. One of the best decisions we have ever made:
    • We head to the desert hot springs for a soak. Hot pools heated by the sulphorous emissions. (if only we could harness Mike’s natural potential similarly)
    • Meet Dave who joins our merry band. We head to a mountain orchard in the midst of the dusty Steens.
    • Mike adds Alpha Male points by firing John’s gun. Looks part redneck, part training-camp-kid. Only stops when Dave leans forward and says “There’s a truck over there where you’re firing…”
    • Night time, desert encampment, sleeping under the stars, landsailing until I crash into Dave’s tent… Magical.

    Wednesday, 12th August, Frenchglen: meteor showers across perfect night skies

    Wednesday, August 19th, 2009
    • After all the excitement of the crash, and a distinctly dodgy motel in Madras, we set off south to see the Alvord Desert
    • Of course, a day of long driving doesn’t get us there and we are forced to camp in the charming hamlet of Frenchglen
    • The hilarious thing about Team GTD is that, in American terms, we are absolutely tiny. Whenever we pull up to camp, the bike is titchy in comparison with the vehicles we pull up alongside, and then we get out our two man tiny tent, pitch it and hop in – alongside tents with vestibules, firesides with chairs to seat an auditorium-load of people, etc.
    • And so it was in Frenchglen. But we were far away from our neighbours for it to feel like a wilderness, and the surrounding wilderness stretched for as far as we could see.
    • Darkness descended, the sky got inky black, and Mike and I got out the granny rug which lives in the sidecar, lay down on the grass and settled in to watch the meteor showers which everyone had promised.
    • The night sky itself was magical, with perfect clarity of the milky way, and thousands upon thousands of stars. Not long after we lay down to watch the show, the showers began – they happen every year around this time, and we had caught the night. Streaks of light glided across the Oregon sky. I think one of the most magical experiences of my life.